Ep. 2428 Juliana Colangelo interviews Mark Jammal of The Vinous Bunch | Masterclass US Wine Market

A new palate for Italian wine in New York restaurants

When a sommelier trades the lecture hall for the dining room, he learns to listen. Marc Jamal, co‑founder of the Venice Bunch and a familiar face on Brooklyn floors, describes a market remaking itself around mood, texture, and story. Young diners are not merely choosing bottles — they are voting for lifestyles, moments, and the language that accompanies them. The result is a restaurant wine list shaped less by rigid appellations and more by approachable, playful categories that promise lifted acidity, easy drinkability, and a sense of discovery.

From theater to terroir: a career that reads like a travelogue

Marc’s path from musical theater to harvest stands and corporate wine programs matters because it defines his listening. He learned the craft in Sonoma and then paid his dues in New York’s varied hospitality scene, from low‑key Brooklyn neighborhoods to white‑tablecloth uptown rooms. That range explains why he can read a room quickly: some diners still want dense, jammy old‑world power, but an increasing portion of the market prefers nuance, lift, and a narrative they can buy into with confidence.

Why chilled reds, orange wine, and pét‑nat have become shorthand

Three shorthand answers now dominate: chilled reds, orange wines, and pét‑nats. These are not trends in isolation but part of a broader shift away from heavy, overheated flavors toward wines that feel energetic and social. For many young consumers, those categories signal a lighter, more convivial evening — the kind that pairs well with small plates and lingering conversation. The aesthetic matters as much as the flavor: “orange” implies ancient technique and artisanal craft; pét‑nat announces that the bottle is spontaneous and sparkling; chilled reds read as casual and seasonless.

Palate and marketing coexist

There is a pragmatic split between palate and marketing. Consumers often respond to buzzwords, but they respond in part because the wines behind those words deliver a sensory promise: brightness, lower perceived alcohol, and clarity. Marc describes how modern New York drinkers want lift and energy rather than heavy extraction. The language of natural wine carries both a promise of minimal intervention and an aesthetic cue — a way for buyers to communicate their tastes quickly and confidently at a busy table.

Sicily as escapism: place sells feeling

Regionality remains important even when styles rule the day. Sicily has emerged as a hotspot because it sells a narrative of sun, coast, and tactile earthiness — a vacation in a glass. Influences from pop culture and visual lifestyle signifiers (linen shirts, coastal imagery) make island wines evocative choices for diners seeking momentary escape. At the same time, recognizable varietals such as Sangiovese and Nebbiolo maintain traction because familiarity eases risk for newer wine drinkers.

The price of value and the currency of storytelling

In an uncertain economy, value becomes both a price point and an experience. Marc argues that value is often less about the dollar figure and more about the narrative that surrounds a bottle. A well‑told story — about farming, family, or a distinctive winemaking decision — converts curiosity into purchase. The sommelier, server, or brand ambassador becomes the interpreter who converts provenance into meaning. Educating those gatekeepers is therefore crucial; a passionate, authentic story can lift a modest bottle into a memorable part of a meal.

What Italian producers can do differently in New York

Italian wine has a natural advantage in the restaurant market: excellent price‑to‑quality ratios and centuries of stylistic variety. Marc suggests leaning into that advantage with clarity and design: create a sub‑brand or a narrative thread that reads as youthful without sacrificing craft. The sweet spot lies between adventurous marketing and technical rigor — an approachable product that is also unmistakably well made. Producers who invest in relationships with sommeliers, importers, and brand developers will find their wines recommended more often and remembered longer.

How a wine becomes sticky

Memorability comes from specificity. Wines that are anchored to a strong sense of place, a clear stylistic identity, and a concise story tend to stick. Marc emphasizes relationships and consistency: when sommeliers can reliably recommend a bottle with conviction, that bottle becomes associated with occasions and sentiments — the very things younger consumers are trying to curate. Balance remains essential; even wine marketed to a youthful crowd must stand on technical competence to endure beyond the fashion cycle.

Practical notes for restaurants, buyers, and producers

• Design lists around approachability: prioritize styles and regions that communicate quickly to guests.
• Invest in human storytelling: train floor staff to tell concise, compelling vineyard stories.
• Maintain quality within trends: lighter, trendy wines should still be well‑made to preserve longevity.
• Use sub‑brands thoughtfully: create youth‑leaning labels without undermining the core brand’s credibility.

There is a gentle irony in the changes Marc describes: as consumers pursue the novel and the hip, they simultaneously demand reassurance. They want stories that promise authenticity and wines that taste alive. In that paradox lies an opportunity for Italian producers and restaurant buyers alike — to craft experiences that are both adventurous and rooted. The most enduring wines will be those that make the next generation feel seen, educated, and delighted at once.

Final thought: wine’s future in cities like New York will be decided at the table, where flavor, story, and human connection converge to turn unfamiliar bottles into personal rituals.